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Glossary
Mio Destino Glossary
Common terms used within the Fashion & Lingerie Industries in relation to:
FABRICS
Antron®
Antron is a type of nylon which was first made by DuPont® in the 1960s.
Calais Lace
A delicate Lace from the region of Nord/Pas-de-Calais in northern France where lace has been made for the last 200 years. Exclusive Paris fashion houses often use Calais lace whilst nearly 80% of the production goes into the making of fine lingerie and bridal lingerie. For more information, click here.
Charmeuse
This name is given to a soft material that drapes beautifully and is typically made of either polyester or silk. It is frequently used for wedding dresses as it is very smooth, lightweight and has a semi-lustrous satin face, the back being dull. For more information, click here.
Chiffon
A very sheer, soft fabric which is often made of silk, having a plain weave. It is very lightweight and can also be made of polyester, rayon or other fibers and is common in negliges and babydolls. For more information, click here.
Cotton
This is natural fibre coming from the seedpod of the cotton plant. It makes a fabric that allows the skin to breath and is soft to the touch. The highest quality cotton fabrics are produced using Pima or Egyptian cotton which has the longest fibres. This fabric tends to be used in nightwear or pyjamas. For more information, click here.
Denier
Denier is a system for measuring the weight/fineness of a continuous filament fiber, particularly in relation to hosiery. The measurement is used to number all manufactured fibers.
Denier increases as the thickness of the fiber increases with the lower a number, such as 10, equating to a lighter/finer fibre and a higher number, such as 50, defining a heavier/thicker material. Denier is often used in industry as a supportive fabric, it is mounted onto the back of a fine lace to give it more structure and enable it to withstand higher amounts of pressure. It is mounted by being laminated onto the back of a fabric and can be found behind the centre fronts on the bra or on the cup itself to make a stretch fabric rigid.
Egyptian Cotton
All cotton grown in Egypt is "Egyptian" but it is not all extra-long staple (ELS) cotton - the most desirable and softest often used for designer pajamas. The description "Egyptian cotton" conjures in the mind of many consumers the image of the very finest and longest cottons in the world. Egypt does produce and sell some of the best ELS cotton in the world, but it amounts to less than 15% of annual global ELS cotton exports, and is approximately 40% of Egyptian cotton exports. For more information, click here.
Faille
A silk-like woven fabric that is soft, glossy and finely ribbed. It is normally made from silk, cotton or manufactured fibres. For more information, click here.
Fiberfill
A lightweight synthetic filler material made from specially engineered fibres. It is sometimes used as a lining for bras. Fiberfill is largely used as cut and sow cups, it provides a padding for the bra and can come in a variety of thicknesses.
Fishnet
Often used for fishnet stockings it is quite a coarse open-mesh fabric.
Gossamer
A gauze-like fabric having a very fine texture.
Interlock
Interlock stitch fabrics are heavier, thicker and more stable than those made in single knit constructions. Interlock resembles two separate 1 x 1 ribbed fabrics, being a rib stitch variation, that are interknitted.
Italian Nylon
Italian nylon is a very high quality knit fabric which includes some lycra to give great four way stretch. It is often used in the construction of bras and knickers. It comes from Italy and is a material with high recovery properties and good strength. It has good germ resistance to body acids and is resistant to abrasion.
Leavers Lace
Is a special method used from Calais, in France and means that the weave and delicacy is unique and it adds extra luxury and comfort to every garment. It is therfore poularly used in Bridal Lingerie, Exclusive Designer Lingerie and Camisoles.
Linen
A very cool and absorbent fabric which is made with fibres from the woody stem of the flax plant. It is often blended with manufactured fibres as it creases easily. The fibres are more lustrous and are stronger than cotton. Linen trends to be prominent in the Spring/Summer ranges due to being a cooling fabric. For more information, click here.
Mesh
Open-weave knitted or woven fabric with evenly spaced holes giving a sheer or net-like effect. This is used in bras can be found in the cups or the wings, it's not a strong fabric.
Modal
Produced by the Austrian textile company, Lenzing Modal® is a microfiber (a variety of Rayon) which is spun from beechwood cellulose giving a fabric with a smooth surface that is delicate and light. It is breathable and extremely comfortable and is 50% more absorbent than cotton. It is an increasingly popular material for luxury pyjamas. Garments made from Micro Modal are resilient to frequent washing remaining soft and silky whilst their colours retain their shine and brilliance. It is particularly well suited to blending with cotton and will not pill like cotton. For more information, click here.
Microfibre
An extremely fine synthetic fibre (finer than silk) which is light-weight and luxurious. It is soft and comfortable to wear. The filaments can be packed tightly giving water repellence whilst maintaining breathability.
Miratex
A patented synthetic fabric used for swimwear with three times as much Lycra spandex as normal swimwear materials. It has been used to great effect by Miraclesuit® the American bathing suits company. The swimsuit company sells beachwear, bathing suits, and cruise wear that it claims will make a woman look 10 pounds lighter in 10 seconds®.
The Miraclesuit is claimed to be a unique new swimming costume that contours, shapes, slims and firms the body whilst remaining comfortable. It is fashionable and practical. Termed ‘Miraclesuit' because it has three times the holding power of the average bathing costumes which it accomplishes without the conventional girdle control linings.
Miratex was developed after years of research, though the Miraclesuit company says that the magic is also in the way the fabric is cut and sewn. They say it is designed and fitted, engineered like no other swimsuit available.
Netting
A net/mesh fabric used to cover or enclose.
Nylon
Nylon, first produced by DuPont, is strong, elastic and has excellent resilience to chemicals and abrasion. It was the first ever commercially produced synthetic fibre and it can be permanently set with heat and has low moisture absorbency.
Panne
Velvet-like fabric that has been flattened to give a certain appearance.
Patent Leather
Leather which has a hard, smooth and glossy surface.
Peau de Soie
Made from silk or a manufactured fibre it is a heavy twill-weave drape-able satin fabric. For more information, click here.
Pima Cotton
Previously known as ‘American-Egyptian' cotton was renamed in honour of the Pima Indians who grew the cotton for the USDA in Sacaton, Arizona. It is a generic name for extra-long staple (ELS) cotton grown mainly in Peru, the U.S.A. and Australia. Its uniformity and strength measurements are considerably higher than those of upland cotton. It has a silk-like texture, a very fine weave and a brilliant white shade that is easily dyed especially important in luxury pyjamas. For more information, click here.
Piqué
A knit or woven fabric of medium-weight, with raised dobby designs including wales, waffles, cords or patterns. Knitted versions are constructed using double-knit technique constructions whilst woven versions have cords running in the direction of the warp or lengthwise.
Polyester
It is a popular fabric (also the name of the fibre) which is frequently used for lingerie having stretch and strength whilst also being thoroughly resilient. It copes well with abrasive effects, resists wrinkling and has low absorbency and quick drying properties. For more information, click here.
Powernett
It is used in the wings of bras as it is a stretch fabric but it has the strength to be supportive. It comes in different weights and it is used widely throughout the industry.
Rayon
A silk-like material which is also known as Viscose. It refers to a group of smooth textile fibers made from regenerated cellulose created by extrusion through tiny holes. The materials used range from cotton linters and wood pulp to other forms of vegetable matter. It is not a strong fabric but it absorbs moisture and is extremely comfortable against the skin. For more information, click here.
Ringspun Cotton
Ringspun cotton is finer and softer to the touch than ordinary cotton fabric. It is created by tightly twisting the cotton fibres together to make a smoother, stronger and finer yarn.
Satin
This woven style fabric can be made from various materials. Characterised by a lustrous face and an opposite side with a matte effect. It is a popular fabric in for use in glamorous Italian Lingerie, French Lingerie and Bridal Lingerie. Popular satin weaves include faille satin, crepe-back satin, bridal satin, moleskin, antique satin and slipper satin. For more information, click here.
Sequins
Sequins are disk shaped beads, commonly made from plastic, which are used for decorative purposes. Often they are flat but some times they are made with facests to help them sparkle. Some sequins are stitched at one point to allow them to move whilst others are stitched at multiple points for a more secure attachment. Sequins are commonly used in evening dresses and cocktail dresses.
Silk
A truly luxurious, natural filament fibre produced by the industrious silkworm whilst it constructs its cocoon which has become a must for Luxurious Designer Lingerie. The majority of commercial silk comes from Asia, and in particular China where it is produced by cultivated caterpillars. A thicker, shorter fibre is spun by wild caterpillars and is known as wild silk or tussah silk. Silk Lingerie is seen as very sexy and exclusive. For more information, click here.
Spandex
A synthetic fibre made from polyurethane and a common name for elastane. An alternative to those people allergic to latex, it is lightweight, strong, durable highly elastic, and non-absorbent.
Spannette
A natural rubber latex/nylon stretchable fabric which has numerous air holes giving breathability and comfort.
Supplex
Supplex nylon is made by DuPont®. It is a lightweight, quick drying and durable, cotton soft nylon that gives the performance benefits of a man-made fabric with the appearance of cotton.
Swarovski Crystals
The glamorous Swarovski Crystals are regularly used in the designer lingerie, corset and bridal lingerie industries.
Tricot
A finely knitted fabric that is made in such a way as to have no elasticity. It may be made from such fibres as silk, nylon, wool, rayon, cotton or other fibres. This word comes from the French word ‘tricoter' which means to knit and it was d
eveloped specifically for the underwear industry.
Viscose
A fibre made from regenerated cellulose and the European term for rayon.
FABRIC TECHNIQUES
Blend
A blend describes a yarn that is made up of two or more fibres which are then spun or twisted together to form the required yarn. It is a process that can enhance a yarn by employing certain properties from each individual material that has been employed such as is the case with Poly/Cotton.
Cotton Lisle
Lisle is often utilized in the making of high quality men's garments.
It has a smooth finish and is a hard-spun two ply cotton yarn which is made from long staple fibres which is treated to remove any fuzzy ends.
Elastane
Elastane, as it is widely known as in Europe, is the name given to a synthetic fabric which has an incredibly high degree of elasticity. It is also known as Spandex. It is often mixed with other types of fabric.
Jacquard
The name given to a fabric with an intricate weave or pattern woven into it often in a different colour or texture. This is a technique often employed in the making of high quality bras and knickers. Two types of jacquard woven fabrics are damask and brocade. Jacquard gets its name from ‘Joseph Marie Jacquard' who designed a loom attachment which could weave patterns into fabric. For more information, click here.
Jacquard Knit
Referring to a double knit fabric in which a Jacquard type of mechanism is employed. It allows for a very high degree of individual needles or small groups of needles which can produce complex, highly patterned knits.
Liberty Print
Highly prized, gorgeous printed fabrics by the 130 year old company ‘Liberty of London'. For more information, click here.
Lycra®
A spandex synthetic fibre and a trademark of DuPont. It is strong, durable, lightweight and soft. It is stronger than rubber and can be stretched over 500% without breaking. It is usually mixed with other fabrics and used for tight, body hugging garments like catsuits and sexy dresses that hold their shape. Lycra is also a key component for sports wear fabrics.
Merino Wool
The merino sheep is the most numerous breed of sheep in the world and super fine merinos are regarded as having the finest and softest wool of any sheep. Merino wool fibre is fine and long giving luxurious fabrics that are soft and thin. For more information, click here.
X-Static Silver Fibre
A sliver fibre, having a layer of pure silver permanently bonded to the face of a textile fibre. It retains traditional tactile and textile characteristics and can be used in knits, woven and non-woven as either a spun or filament yarn. (trimming)
Latex
Being made of rubber Latex therefore has rubber-like qualities. Many people are allergic to this product and it can degrade with contact to perspiration and in direct sunlight. However, it is used in some elastics to provide greater elasticity.
SPORTSWEAR FABRIC
Bamboo
It may seem difficult to believe but there is a fabric available now that is made from Bamboo. It has several advantages in that it is breathable, cool, extremely soft, has a nice lustre and is naturally anti-bacterial. Thats why it's so popular for mens undies and womens undies.This type of fabric has the ideal properties to be used in sportswear, in particular sport bras. For more infomation, click here.
Coolmax
This material has been designed to move moisture away from the body towards the surface of the garment to allow for quick absorption. It is a polyester fibre whose effect leaves the wearer feeling cooler and dryer. Coolmax works best outdoors, as it does not absorb moisture, where the airflow can evaporate body moisture. Coolmax is said to resist fading and will not wrinkle or shrink.
Themastat
A ground-breaking fibre which has a hollow core allowing you to remain warmer and drier by wicking moisture away from the body.
TECHNIQUES
Acetate
This is produced through a chemical process which employs acetic acid which combines with cotton filaments and/or wood pulp. It is then extruded through a spinneret and hardened. Acetate is used in the lingerie industry in pattern cutting, by tracing your patterns off onto acetate you can see what part of a print will be showing. It also allows you to match the prints up on the adjoining pattern piece.
Boning (also termed ribs or stays)
A strip of stiff material, formerly steel or whalebone but nowadays more commonly plastic, is used to give support or structure to certain types of garment. This would be utilized predominantly in corsets, bustiers and some bras. Boning is present in bras usually for larger cup sizes, it is also used in strapless bras to prevent the wing from collapsing. The boning will be on the side seam between the wing and cradle.
Burn-Out
This is a process which creates a sheer opening in the material. It involves a process of printing onto a fabric in a certain pattern with a substance that destroys one or more of the fibers that are present whilst leaving others intact.
Chenille
The name ‘Chenille' is the name for the caterpillar in French and also refers to a soft fuzzy fabric which was developed in France and is often used for edging particularly on high quality camisoles.
Combed Cotton
A combing process is utilized to remove the short fibers and any foreign matter that may be within the fiber .This gives a more uniform, cleaner and lustrous yarn particularly suitable to luxury pajamas.
Double Knit
A knitted fabric which is composed of two inseparable layers of loops.
Ecosil Polyester
Ecosil is used to describe polyester fibre which is spun very compactly to give the fabric a resistance to pilling and abrasion and a very clean appearance.
Embossing
A process whereby hot, engraved rollers are used to press a design into a fabric which is passed between them. This gives a raised design or pattern on the fabric. For more information, click here.
Embroidery
Embellishment of a fabric, either by hand or machine, which adds colour, texture and design with the use of coloured threads which are sewn into the fabric. Very popular to use in the construction of sexy undies and elegant bras. For more information, click here.
Eyelet
Patterned cut-out designs in a fabric. Stitching or embroidery is applied around the cut-out sections to prevent the fabric from ravelling. Eyelets are used in corsetry which are metal and are punched through the fabric using an eyelet machine, incasing the hole in a metal ring. This prevents the fabric from ripping or fraying when the ties are pulled. Eyelets are now being more commonly used as a design feature with out a true purpose. For more information, click here.
Filigree
This term refers to intricate detailing on a fabric which is often in a metallic thread. It is increasingly popular in Italian Lingerie and French Lingerie.
Lamé
The design or background of a woven fabric employing flat silver or gold metal threads. For more information, click here.
Lining
Material that is sewn into the inside of a garment to make it more opaque or more comfortable to wear. Linings are frequently used to add structure to bras or to give a contrasting background to sheer fabrics or lacy. Lining is mainly used in corsets and is a cottoned based fabric; the lining for bras is denier or fibrefil.
Lurex ®
Lurex is a trademark which is used for metallic yarn or thread.
Memory Foam
Memory foam is increasingly used in the construction of bras as the qualities of this material mean that cups will not develop creases that are difficult or impossible to remove. It was originally developed by NASA to make seat cushions for NASA space craft.
Mercerized Cotton
A wet finishing process is used to swell the cotton yarn to give it a smooth, rounded surface giving a stronger and more lustrous yarn. The material produced is more readily dyed, producing brighter, deeper colours. For more information, click here.
Paisley
First popularized in Paisley, Scotland, during the 1800s, this swirling teardrop design was an adaptation of a pattern found on Indian shawls. It is an elegant and popular contemporary pattern often used in luxury ties and glamorous lingerie. For more information, click here.
Plaid
Plaids date back to the 16th century and come in numerous patterns. It is characterized by lines of colour running horizontally and vertically and intersecting to form squares.
Tactel
Tactel nylon, again a DuPont product, is a crinkle effect nylon which has a silky soft touch whilst being quick drying and lightweight.
TERMS
Common colours & patterns
Black, white, nude, pink, turquoise, emerald, scarlet, red, ivory, brown, sand, gold, silver, polka dot, stripped, stripe, multicoloured, blue, lime, lemon, purple, mocha, green, lilac, orange, champagne, green, yellow, grey, print, beige, orchid, spotty, pearls, metallic, orchid, crème, navy, tan, midnight, coral, burgundy, cherry, marine blue, aqua, lipstick, sand, pearl, mint, jade, rose, chocolate, plum, apricot, maroon, paisley, cream, chocolate, bronze, tropical, copper, coco, cocoa, diamond, crystal, search, rose, sequined, cherry blossoms, floral, velvet, ruby, tartan.
Faux
Faux refers to something that is an imitation, such as faux leather.
Gloss (in relation to hosiery) Having a shiny finish.
Keyhole
A design detail resembling a keyhole. It can be found in the back panel of pants or a neck line of a top.
Opaque
Opaque, as it is commonly used in the fashion industry, means the fabric is not transparent or translucent and therefore the body can't be seen through the garment.
Poly
Referring to a polymerized plastic or something made of it. In particular a polyester fibre, fabric, or garment.
Polyamide
It is an alternative name for Nylon and is a commonly used term in Europe. It is the basic fibre forming substance for Nylon.
Rib Knit
A technique frequently used in waists and necklines as the fabric is more elastic and durable than plain knits. It is characterized by a knit fabric with undulating rows.
Ribbed
An effect on a fabric using vertical ridges.
Sanforized
A preshrinking process that was patented by Cluett, Peabody and Co., Inc. Fabric shrinkage is said to be just 1%.
Scallop
A decorative border or edging made up of semicircular ‘scallop' like curves. Popular on the top edge of Designer Bras & Bridal Bras. Scalloped edging can be found on lace or elastic edging.
Sheer
A term used to describe transparent fabrics, often used for designer negligees.
Shirring
An attractive effect created by gathering material into lines.
Sizes
Sizes
XS, S, S/M, M, M/L, L, XL, XXL,
Ultra Small, Extra Small, Small, Small/Medium, Small Medium, Medium, Medium Large, Medium/Large, Large, Extra Large, Extra-Large,
6-8, 8-10, 10-12, 12-14, 14-16, 16-18, 18-20, 20-22, 22-24, 24-26, 26-28, 28-30,
6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22,
Bras
28A, 28AA, 28B, 28C, 28D, 28DD, 28E, 28F, 28FF, 28G, 30A, 30AA, 30B, 30C, 30D, 30DD, 30E, 30F, 30FF, 30G, 30H, 30HH, 30J, 30JJ, 32A, 32AA, 32B, 32C, 32D, 32DD, 32E, 32F, 32FF, 32G, 32GG, 32H, 32HH, 32J, 32JJ, 34A, 34AA, 34B, 34C, 34D, 34DD, 34E, 34F, 34FF, 34G, 34GG, 34H, 34HH, 34J, 34JJ, 36A, 36AA, 36B, 36C, 36D, 36DD, 36E, 36F, 36FF, 36G, 36GG, 36H, 36HH, 36J, 36JJ, 38A, 38AA, 38B, 38C, 38D, 38DD, 38E, 38F, 38FF, 38G, 38GG, 38H, 38HH, 38J, 38JJ, 40A, 40AA, 40B, 40C, 40D, 40DD, 40E, 40F, 40FF, 40G, 40GG, 40H, 40HH, 40J, 40JJ, 42A, 42AA, 42B, 42C, 42D, 42DD, 42E, 42F, 42FF, 42G, 42GG, 42H, 42HH, 42J, 42JJ, 44A, 44AA, 44B, 44C, 44D, 44DD, 44E, 44F, 44G, 44H, 44HH, 44J, 44JJ, 46A, 46AA, 46B, 46C, 46D, 46DD, 46E, 46F, 46FF, 46G, 46GG, 46H, 46J, 46JJ, 48A, 48AA, 48B, 48C, 48D, 48DD, 48E, 48F, 48FF, 48G, 48GG, 48J, 48JJ, 50A, 50AA, 50B, 50C, 50D, 50DD, 50E, 50F, 50FF, 50G, 50GG, 50H, 50HH, 50J, 50JJ, 52A, 52AA, 52B, 52C, 52D, 52DD, 52E, 52F, 52FF, 52G, 52GG, 52H, 52HH, 52J 52JJ, 54A, 54AA, 54B, 54C, 54D, 54DD, 54E, 54F, 54FF, 54G, 54GG, 54H, 54HH, 54J, 54JJ, 56A, 56AA, 56B, 56B, 56C, 56D, 56DD, 56E, 56F, 56FF, 56G, 56GG, 56H, 56HH, 56J, 56JJ,
A, AA, B, C, D, DD, DD+, DDD, DDD/E, E, F, FF, FF+, G, GG, H, HH, J, JJ,
25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 24, 22, 20, 26, 28, 30, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42,
0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7,
Supima Cotton
The name "Supima" is an abbreviation of Superior Pima and is a licensed trademark owned by ‘Supima' and its members. It is a body which promotes textile and apparel products made of 100% American Pima cotton and it is strictly controlled by the grower organization. A very popular fabric for use with Designer Nightwear. For more information, click here.
Tulle
A very fine net of viscose, silk or nylon. For more information, click here.
